Tips on Buying and Installing Car Parts

Car Parts To Check When Your Engine Refuses To Start

A non-starting engine does not necessarily mean hefty repair bills. The problem can be caused by an assortment of factors, most of which are not part of the assembly. In many cases, you’ll be able to track down and fix the problem yourself without needing to take your vehicle to the repair shop.

Below, we’ll provide a methodical procedure you can use to diagnose a non-starting engine. The following is designed to help you narrow down the root cause of the problem, eliminating unlikely culprits along the way.

When The Engine Will Not Crank

If your engine refuses to turn over (you might hear a clicking sound or no sound at all), start troubleshooting from the point at which a current is generated. This means your battery. Test its voltage output, and recharge it if it’s low. If the output is fine, inspect the connecting cables. Clean them if they are dirty.

Assuming the battery is fine, test the starter. Bypassing the relay, send voltage directly to the component, and look to see whether it spins. If it does not spin, the starter needs to be replaced. Otherwise, another factor is causing the non-starting issue.

Also, check the ignition switch. If it fails, the voltage from your battery will reach a dead end, never making it to the starter in the first place.

When The Engine Turns Over, But Will Not Fire

Here, the engine cranks over, but refuses to start. As soon as you allow your key to return to its default position, the assembly stops cranking. The fact that it turns over confirms that your battery is fine, and voltage is able to travel through the connecting cables attached to its terminals. It also means the current is reaching the starter.

The problem is due to a deficit in one of three areas: fuel, spark, or compression. Start by testing for fuel. Assuming there is an adequate supply in the gas tank, lift the hood and have a friend crank the engine. Listen for a mechanical sound near the tank. The sound is made by your fuel pump. If you’re unable to hear it, there’s a good chance the pump has failed.

Next, check the fuel filter. It is located on the fuel rail between the pump and the fuel injectors. If it becomes clogged, gas will be unable to pass through it en route to the engine.

Insufficient spark can occur due to a few reasons. First, check the spark plugs and plug wires. If more than one are failing, your engine may have difficulty firing. Look for deposits on the spark plugs, and check whether the gap across which the spark jumps has grown too large. With the plug wires, check for cracking and other signs of surface damage. Also, test for resistance since an electrical arc can prevent voltage from reaching the plug.

Lack of spark can also be caused by a failing ignition coil. This is the component that turns the low-voltage current from the battery into a high-voltage current for the engine. If the coil is working properly, check the ignition module. This component controls the ground circuit needed by the coil. If the ignition module is malfunctioning, the coil will be unable to perform its function.

Check the distributor cap and rotor for external damage. Also, look for deposits along the inside track near the contact points. If deposits have accumulated, the connection between the rotor and the contacts might have become compromised.

Next, assuming adequate fuel and spark are reaching the engine, check for sufficient compression. If the exhaust valves on any of the cylinders are failing to create a proper seal on the combustion chambers, compression will decline. A failing head gasket and worn rings can also cause this problem.

An engine that fails to start is always frustrating, especially since so many factors can play a role. But by taking a systematic approach to troubleshooting the problem, you may be able to identify the cause without the help of a mechanic.

Related articles

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Basics of Motorcycle Tires

How do you choose the very best tires for your motorcycle? There is a lot to consider before you start choosing your tires. One thing is size, this certainly is important, but there are other things important as well. Check on the age of your tires and then check the tire tread. If the tread is less than 1.6 mm deep or 1/16 of an inch or if you should see any evidence of a crack, then it’s time for new tires.

What type of bike and what size the wheel is will determine the size of the tire. You can’t just decide to put say, fat tires on unless the bike has been modified for that, like say, a chopper. Check the tires that are currently on you bike and check your owner’s manual for their tire recommendations.

Trying to read the markings on the tire might just prove impossible but if you can see it, here is how to do it. The order of the tire size code is (1) section width, after you find the size code, find the description code, it includes the M/C for a motorcycle. Number (2) is the aspect ratio, (3) is construction, (4) is rim diameter, as previously stated (5) is description code, (6) is the load index number, (7) is the speed index letter, (7) is the tubeless or tube code. The size codes can be millimeter or inch size. The construction code will tell if the tire is Bias belted, Radial belted or simply Bias. The Bias tire has a dash between the aspect ratio number and the section width. A B in the code is the Bias Belted and R is for the Radial tire.

The type wheel you have will determine whether you have tubeless or tubed tires. Spokes will mostly mean you need tubed tires. Today’s motorcycles mostly have cast wheels which would mean tubeless tires. Just to be safe, check your Owner’s Manual and your tire codes before you purchase any tires.

Riding conditions and your preference will also determine what type of tires you buy. You need tires suited to the lifestyle of your riding habits. If you ride your bike in any type of weather, you will need ties with good tread for good traction. As with any tire, there are some much better to help with traction and to reduce your risk of hydroplaning.

You will always need to consider the cost. The old adage of you get what you pay for applies here. You might consider a lower cost, general purpose kind of tire that should work great for a sunny day or short trip weekend rider. If you are a little more into it than that and your bike has great suspension, ABS and traction control, then you should think about a better set of performance tires that would cooperate with your motorcycles technology.

There are many new types of tires for motorcycles that can satisfy your needs. Shopping online for tires is a great option and you might actually lean something by reading all the descriptions and great information available to you. You might even save some money.

Troubleshooting Your Vehicle’s Air Conditioning System

Your car’s air conditioning and heating system work in tandem to produce the cold and hot air that is blown through your vents. This system provides you and your passengers with temperature-related comfort while you’re on the road. It can, however, malfunction. For example, the A/C may start blowing air that is slightly less cool than it normally is; it may lose its ability to blow cool air altogether; or, you might smell an odd, slightly-sweet odor coming from the vents. These and other signs indicate a problem than needs to be addressed, preferably by a trained mechanic.

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at your car’s air conditioner. We’ll first explain how it works, and then describe some of the issues that can cause the system to function poorly.

Basics Of Your Car’s A/C

Most air conditioning units installed in vehicles today run on R-134a refrigerant (rather than freon, its predecessor). The refrigerant undergoes changes as it circulates through several components in the system, including the compressor, condensor, expansion valve, and evaporator. The compressor receives the refrigerant, and pressurizes it before sending it to the condensor. When the refrigerant leaves the compressor, it is in the form of a hot gas.

The condensor works similarly to your cooling system’s radiator. The hot refrigerant (in vapor form) arrives, and is cooled with the help of an electric cooling fan. It is then turned into a liquid before it is sent to the expansion valve. Inside the expansion valve, pressure is removed from the liquid refrigerant, which is then sent to the evaporator.

By the time the liquid refrigerant reaches the evaporator, it is already cold. It is transformed back into vapor so it can help remove heat from the cabin of your vehicle. The refrigerant moves through the evaporator’s tubes while a fan blows across its surface. Cold air is blown through your vents while the refrigerant is sent back to the compressor to repeat the cycle.

Leaks In The System

Most problems occur as the result of insufficient R-134a in the A/C system. The important thing to note is that your car’s air conditioner does not consume refrigerant. If the level of R-134a is low, the reason is because there is a leak somewhere in the system.

Leaks can develop in several places, most notably the hoses and seals. While this happens more frequently in older vehicles, late model cars tend to be equipped with smaller systems. This means there is less refrigerant to lose, so even a small leak can have a noticeable effect on the air conditioner’s ability to cool your vehicle.

Slipped Or Broken Drive Belt

The compressor, arguably the most important component of the A/C system, is powered by a drive belt. This belt is attached to your engine’s crankshaft, and must continuously turn in order for the compressor to perform its job (pressurizing and heating refrigerant vapor). If it breaks, the compressor will cease to work. A dormant compressor means the air conditioner will be unable to blow cold air into the passenger compartment.

If the drive belt slips, the A/C may continue to blow cool air, but its ability to do so might be severely hampered.

Mold And Bacteria On The Evaporator

In some cases, you may smell a strange odor coming from your vents. This usually means bacteria or mold has begun to grow on the evaporator due to residual moisture. This can become a health issue since some of the microorganisms and spores may be blown through the vents. If you breathe them in over an extended period, you might become more susceptible to congestion, infections, and respiratory issues.

If you experience a problem with your car’s air conditioner, let a trained mechanic diagnose and fix it. Much of the work involved with troubleshooting, repairing, or replacing the components requires special tools. Thus, few drivers will be able to address issues with their A/C on their own.

Potential Causes Of Spark Knock Within Your Engine’s Cylinders

Your engine’s 4-stroke combustion cycle is supposed to be tuned to precision. Air and fuel enter each cylinder’s chamber before being compressed for ignition. A spark ignites the mixture and generates the energy needed to turn the crankshaft. The rotation of the crankshaft moves your vehicle. This cycle occurs thousands of times each minute while you’re on the road. For a variety of reasons, however, the air-fuel mixture may detonate unpredictably. This is a problem known as spark knock (sometimes called detonation).

Spark knock occurs for one of two reasons: the air-fuel mixture is either too compressed or excessive heat is present inside the chamber. The constant detonation will eventually damage your engine and head gasket. In this article, I’ll describe the factors that can contribute to the problem, so you’ll know where to begin troubleshooting.

Failing Knock Sensor

All vehicles are designed with a knock sensor that monitors incidents of detonation. Under normal circumstances, this sensor will detect knocking and report the event to your car’s powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM will adjust the ignition timing in order to minimize – or eliminate – the detonation. In doing so, it helps the engine perform more efficiently.

If the knock sensor fails, it will be unable to alert the PCM that detonation is occurring within the combustion chamber. As a result, the PCM cannot make adjustments to the ignition timing. This allows spark knock to continue damaging the engine.

Failing Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System

When your engine is operating under load, the EGR valve is supposed to open in order to allow exhaust to escape. By doing this, the EGR valve thins the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. This lowers the temperature inside the chamber, and thus makes detonation less likely.

If the EGR valve fails, it will be unable to open. Consequently, exhaust will not be allowed to escape, and the temperature inside the combustion chamber will remain high. Spark knock thus becomes more likely.

Accumulation Of Carbon Deposits

Carbon can build up inside the combustion chamber and form deposits along the wall and on the piston. This allows heat and compression to rise in the chamber, which raises the risk of detonation. Deposits are most prevalent in cars that are seldom driven over long distances.

Low-Quality Fuel

One of the dangers of using cheap gas in your vehicle is that the stated octane level is often unmet. The fuel’s producers try to keep costs low, and do so in whatever manner is available to them. This includes selling gas with a stated 87 octane that is actually less than 87.

The problem is that 87 is required by most engines to prevent detonation. If there is less octane in the fuel, heat and compression within the combustion chamber rise. This causes spark knock. Usually, transitioning to a high-quality brand of gasoline will get rid of the knocking sound. By then, however, damage to the piston may have already occurred.

Excessive Compression Ratio

Your engine has been designed according to specifications that should normally prevent knocking. The size of the cylinders, the volume inside the chambers, and other aspects help maintain a relatively static compression ratio. When these attributes are modified, however, the compression ratio may rise. For example, this is the case when cylinders are bored in order to accommodate larger pistons.

When the compression ratio rises, spark knock becomes more likely, especially if you continue to use octane 87 fuel. Depending on the modifications, 87 may be insufficient for controlling heat and compression within the chambers. Higher-octane gas is usually required.

The takeaway is that detonation can severely damage your engine, leading to expensive repairs. For this reason, you should have your mechanic find and resolve the underlying cause as quickly as possible. The discussion above provides a good starting place for troubleshooting the problem and taking corrective action.

Changing Your Car Headlights

Like other car parts, your headlights will eventually die; you can count on them burning out. They can potentially last for years, but once they expire, you’ll need to replace them. Of course, the driver is often the last person to notice. They’re usually alerted to the problem by other drivers, friends, and even police officers (who are happy to commemorate the occasion by giving you a ticket). Fortunately, replacing the lights is usually simple, and especially so in new vehicles. In this article, I’ll describe what you need to perform the job. We’ll also discuss the differences between doing the work on new and old cars.

Getting Started

First, you should look at your owner’s manual for bulb specifications. Not all automakers include the information within the manual, but if they do, follow it. If you can’t find the car manufacturer’s recommendations, ask one of the employees at an auto parts retailer. They have access to comprehensive manuals they can refer to, which can be instrumental in selecting the right headlights. Also, keep in mind that many vehicles use different lamps for low and high beams. For example, the low beams may use standard 35-watt bulbs while the high beams require 55-watt units.

Another consideration: there are different types of headlights that you can choose as replacements. Some lamps are marketed as “vision improvement” lights and sell at a premium. Others, like “blue” lamps (or Xenon bulbs), are designed specifically for aesthetic purposes (and also command premium prices). Finally, a few companies offer “long life” lamps. They’re advertised as lasting several times the lifespan of traditional headlights. Of course, they cost significantly more.

New Versus Old

If you’re driving a vehicle that is less than 5 years old, changing the headlights is a matter of popping out the burnt bulb and swapping it for a new one. It’s easy and only takes a few minutes. Older cars – and even a few newer foreign models – are a bit more difficult, though the job is still simple. The reason is because the entire lamp needs to be taken out of its cavity to replace the light. You’ll need to unscrew the unit to take it off its frame. Then, you’ll have to disconnect a small wire socket from the old bulb, connecting it to the replacement before screwing the lamp back into place. It takes a few extra minutes, but it’s not complicated.

The last challenge is making sure the positions of your replacement bulbs don’t cause your lights to point oddly. If they do, you’ll need to adjust them and that can require some trial and error.