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Potential Causes Of Spark Knock Within Your Engine’s Cylinders

Your engine’s 4-stroke combustion cycle is supposed to be tuned to precision. Air and fuel enter each cylinder’s chamber before being compressed for ignition. A spark ignites the mixture and generates the energy needed to turn the crankshaft. The rotation of the crankshaft moves your vehicle. This cycle occurs thousands of times each minute while you’re on the road. For a variety of reasons, however, the air-fuel mixture may detonate unpredictably. This is a problem known as spark knock (sometimes called detonation).

Spark knock occurs for one of two reasons: the air-fuel mixture is either too compressed or excessive heat is present inside the chamber. The constant detonation will eventually damage your engine and head gasket. In this article, I’ll describe the factors that can contribute to the problem, so you’ll know where to begin troubleshooting.

Failing Knock Sensor

All vehicles are designed with a knock sensor that monitors incidents of detonation. Under normal circumstances, this sensor will detect knocking and report the event to your car’s powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM will adjust the ignition timing in order to minimize – or eliminate – the detonation. In doing so, it helps the engine perform more efficiently.

If the knock sensor fails, it will be unable to alert the PCM that detonation is occurring within the combustion chamber. As a result, the PCM cannot make adjustments to the ignition timing. This allows spark knock to continue damaging the engine.

Failing Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System

When your engine is operating under load, the EGR valve is supposed to open in order to allow exhaust to escape. By doing this, the EGR valve thins the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. This lowers the temperature inside the chamber, and thus makes detonation less likely.

If the EGR valve fails, it will be unable to open. Consequently, exhaust will not be allowed to escape, and the temperature inside the combustion chamber will remain high. Spark knock thus becomes more likely.

Accumulation Of Carbon Deposits

Carbon can build up inside the combustion chamber and form deposits along the wall and on the piston. This allows heat and compression to rise in the chamber, which raises the risk of detonation. Deposits are most prevalent in cars that are seldom driven over long distances.

Low-Quality Fuel

One of the dangers of using cheap gas in your vehicle is that the stated octane level is often unmet. The fuel’s producers try to keep costs low, and do so in whatever manner is available to them. This includes selling gas with a stated 87 octane that is actually less than 87.

The problem is that 87 is required by most engines to prevent detonation. If there is less octane in the fuel, heat and compression within the combustion chamber rise. This causes spark knock. Usually, transitioning to a high-quality brand of gasoline will get rid of the knocking sound. By then, however, damage to the piston may have already occurred.

Excessive Compression Ratio

Your engine has been designed according to specifications that should normally prevent knocking. The size of the cylinders, the volume inside the chambers, and other aspects help maintain a relatively static compression ratio. When these attributes are modified, however, the compression ratio may rise. For example, this is the case when cylinders are bored in order to accommodate larger pistons.

When the compression ratio rises, spark knock becomes more likely, especially if you continue to use octane 87 fuel. Depending on the modifications, 87 may be insufficient for controlling heat and compression within the chambers. Higher-octane gas is usually required.

The takeaway is that detonation can severely damage your engine, leading to expensive repairs. For this reason, you should have your mechanic find and resolve the underlying cause as quickly as possible. The discussion above provides a good starting place for troubleshooting the problem and taking corrective action.

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How To Change Your Car’s Headlights

Like other car parts, your headlights will eventually die; you can count on them burning out. They can potentially last for years, but once they expire, you’ll need to replace them. Of course, the driver is often the last person to notice. They’re usually alerted to the problem by other drivers, friends, and even police officers (who are happy to commemorate the occasion by giving you a ticket). Fortunately, replacing the lights is usually simple, and especially so in new vehicles. In this article, I’ll describe what you need to perform the job. We’ll also discuss the differences between doing the work on new and old cars.

Getting Started

First, you should look at your owner’s manual for bulb specifications. Not all automakers include the information within the manual, but if they do, follow it. If you can’t find the car manufacturer’s recommendations, ask one of the employees at an auto parts retailer. They have access to comprehensive manuals they can refer to, which can be instrumental in selecting the right headlights. Also, keep in mind that many vehicles use different lamps for low and high beams. For example, the low beams may use standard 35-watt bulbs while the high beams require 55-watt units.

Another consideration: there are different types of headlights that you can choose as replacements. Some lamps are marketed as “vision improvement” lights and sell at a premium. Others, like “blue” lamps (or Xenon bulbs), are designed specifically for aesthetic purposes (and also command premium prices). Finally, a few companies offer “long life” lamps. They’re advertised as lasting several times the lifespan of traditional headlights. Of course, they cost significantly more.

New Versus Old

If you’re driving a vehicle that is less than 5 years old, changing the headlights is a matter of popping out the burnt bulb and swapping it for a new one. It’s easy and only takes a few minutes. Older cars – and even a few newer foreign models – are a bit more difficult, though the job is still simple. The reason is because the entire lamp needs to be taken out of its cavity to replace the light. You’ll need to unscrew the unit to take it off its frame. Then, you’ll have to disconnect a small wire socket from the old bulb, connecting it to the replacement before screwing the lamp back into place. It takes a few extra minutes, but it’s not complicated.

The last challenge is making sure the positions of your replacement bulbs don’t cause your lights to point oddly. If they do, you’ll need to adjust them and that can require some trial and error.

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The Neophyte’s Guide To Replacing Car Brake Pads

Your braking system relies heavily on the pads that apply pressure to the rotors. Due to continuous use, they can wear down, which will make them less capable of applying the necessary pressure. As a result, you’ll need more space in order to stop your vehicle. In emergency driving situations during which you need to stop suddenly to avoid colliding with a car, pedestrian, or structure in front of you, this can pose a major safety issue.

Fortunately, it’s relatively easy to replace your brake pads. If you have the proper tools, you can remove the old ones and put the replacements on without the help of a mechanic. Below, I’ll provide a step-by-step tutorial for doing the job yourself.

Safety And Tools

Your safety (and the safety of anyone who is helping you) is the most important factor. In order to perform the work, you’ll need to lift your vehicle onto sturdy jack stands. Don’t use stands that seem rickety or wobbly. If your car slips, it can be deadly.

Before you begin, make sure you have the right equipment. You’ll need a lug wrench, an adjustable wrench, and a hammer. Also, if you don’t already own one, consider buying a C-clamp. You may not need it, but it will be there in the event you do. You should also have a set of Allen wrenches nearby.

Before raising your vehicle on the jack stands, break the lug nuts. It’s much easier to do it when your car is on the ground rather than struggling with the lugs when it’s raised.

Remove The Lugs And Calipers

Once your automobile is off the ground, take the lug nuts off. Then, remove the wheels so you have a clear view of the calipers. You’ll see two lug bolts that are near the top of the brake disc. Once the bolts are off, you should be able to jiggle the caliper and move it slightly upward and out. This will give you clearance to take the brake pads off.

Remove The Pads

Before taking them off, look at the assembly. You’ll probably see some metallic clips that are holding things together. Make a mental note because you’ll need to replace everything. Once the caliper has been removed, the pads should slide out easily. If they put up any resistance, give them a few light taps with the hammer to loosen them. After you have removed them, slide the replacements into position. Be sure to refasten any clips that you detached during the process of taking the old parts out.

As your brake pads wear out, a piston inside each caliper makes adjustments in order to apply sufficient pressure and ensure you have the stopping power you need. You’ll need to recalibrate it with your C-clamp so it fits over your replacements. After recalibrating the piston, the last step is to replace the caliper, wheel, and lug nuts.

The entire job of putting the placement brake pads on isn’t complicated. As long as you take a methodical approach, you can perform the work within a couple of hours.

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